Denali’s West Rib Expedition

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A Climber’s Route

[image_frame style=”framed_shadow” align=”left” alt=”The Chicken Couloir” title=”Denali’s West Rib” height=”320″ width=”263″]https://dev.mtnguide.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/west-rib-1-.jpg[/image_frame]

An aesthetic line sweeping up alongside the massive South Face of Denali, the West Rib is a challenging route for climbers with good technical experience, wishing to push themselves on what definitely qualifies as a “Big Route”. Steeper, more exposed, more committing, and more serious than its neighbor, the West Buttress, the Rib is all about the climbing. Complex glacier travel is required to access the base of the route, which quickly rears back to provide 50 -60 degree snow and ice climbing up the famed “Chicken Couloir” which affords access to the ridge and the rest of the climbing challenges ahead.

Since its first ascent in 1959, the West Rib has continued to provide beautiful alpine climbing in a spectacular setting. Its rich history and moderately technical terrain still attracts the best climbers as they hone their skills. The West Rib feels more remote than the neighboring West Buttress, which in combination with the inherent technical challenges gives the route it’s mystique and allure for climber’s looking for a different way up North America’s most sought after summit.

Alpine or Expedition Style?

There are generally two ways to attempt the Rib. One is to hike out of base camp will all your kit and climb the route expedition style, ferrying loads between camps, while you acclimatize on the route. Another style involves ascending the West Buttress route to gain acclimatization and to perhaps put a cache in at the high camp on the Rib. The team then descends back to the North East Fork of the Kahiltna at about 7,800 feet to access the route and climb it in alpine style. There are pros and cons to each method, and conditions of the route may ultimately dictate which style we pursue. The outlined itinerary reflects an alpine style attempt.

Permit Note

SJMG runs this trip in conjunction with our friends at Mountain Trip; an authorized Denali concessionaire.

[pullquote3 quotes=”true” align=”center” cite=”Erik Weihenmeyer”]As a blind climber, I’ve done expeditions all around the world and dealt with all kinds of local outfitters and guide services; San Juan Mountain Guides is the best![/pullquote3]

[button size=”medium” bgColor=”#0d85b5″ textColor=”#ffd17b” align=”left”]Call 800.642.5389 to Reserve[/button]

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West Rib Expedition Itinerary

[image_frame style=”framed_shadow” align=”right” alt=”The Chicken Couloir” title=”The West Rib” height=”320″ width=”263″]https://dev.mtnguide.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/west-rib-1.jpg[/image_frame]

Itinerary Note

As with all climbs in the Alaska Range, it’s best to approach this expedition with a flexible attitude and be prepared to move camp, climb, and generally get things done when the opportunity presents itself. Weather, route conditions, team dynamics, and a host of other factors can influence how our team decides to adjust the itinerary to give us the best chance for success and safety while on the mountain.

[fancy_header variation=”deepblue”]Day 1[/fancy_header]

Meet in Anchorage. Stay in a hotel.

[fancy_header variation=”deepblue”]Day 2[/fancy_header]

Drive to Talkeetna and check in with the NPS. Fly into Base Camp.

[fancy_header variation=”deepblue”]Day 3[/fancy_header]

Move to Camp 1 at 7800′

[fancy_header variation=”deepblue”]Day 4[/fancy_header]

Carry to 10,000′ and return to sleep at Camp 1 (7800′)

[fancy_header variation=”deepblue”]Day 5[/fancy_header][image_frame style=”framed_shadow” align=”right” alt=”View of Foraker from the Rib” title=”Denali’s West Rib” height=”263″ width=”320″]https://dev.mtnguide.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/west-rib-2.jpg[/image_frame]

Move to Camp 2 at 11,200′

[fancy_header variation=”deepblue”]Day 6[/fancy_header]

Back-carry kit from the cache at 10,000.

[fancy_header variation=”deepblue”]Day 7[/fancy_header]

Carry supplies around Windy Corner at 13,500′. Return to and sleep at camp 2 (11.200′)

[fancy_header variation=”deepblue”]Day 8[/fancy_header]

Move to Camp 3 – Genet Basin – at 14,200′

[fancy_header variation=”deepblue”]Day 9[/fancy_header]

Back-carry from Windy Corner and sleep at Camp 3 (14,200′)

[fancy_header variation=”deepblue”]Day 10[/fancy_header]

Carry supplies to cache at 16,400′ on the West Rib and return to sleep at Camp 3 (14,200′)

[fancy_header variation=”deepblue”]Day 11[/fancy_header]

Descend back to Camp 1 (7800′) and the entrance to the NE Fork of the Kahiltna

[fancy_header variation=”deepblue”]Day 12[/fancy_header][image_frame style=”framed_shadow” align=”right” alt=”High on the West Rib” title=”Denali’s West Rib” height=”263″ width=”320″]https://dev.mtnguide.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/west-rib-4.jpg[/image_frame]

Move up the NE Fork of the Kahiltna to the base of the Chicken Couloir.

[fancy_header variation=”deepblue”]Day 13[/fancy_header]

Fix lines up the Chicken Couloir. Then return to camp at 11,000′.

[fancy_header variation=”deepblue”]Day 14[/fancy_header]

Ascend the Chicken Couloir and to Ice Dome Camp (13,400′)

[fancy_header variation=”deepblue”]Day 15[/fancy_header]

Continue up the West Rib!

[fancy_header variation=”deepblue”]Day 16[/fancy_header][image_frame style=”framed_shadow” align=”right” alt=”High camp on the Rib” title=”Denali’s West Rib” height=”320″ width=”263″]https://dev.mtnguide.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/west-rib-5.jpg[/image_frame]

Continue up the West Rib to High Camp and our cache at 16,400′

[fancy_header variation=”deepblue”]Day 17[/fancy_header]

Rest Day.

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Summit Day!

[fancy_header variation=”deepblue”]Days 19 – 24[/fancy_header]

Contingency days for weather, descent, etc.

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West Rib Expedition Equipment List

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Backpack: Internal frame, 50-80 liters. Guides’ pick: Osprey Aether 60
Sleeping bag: Down or synthetic bag rated between 15-30 degrees with compression stuff sack.
Sleeping pad: closed cell foam and air mattress combo. Guides’ pick: Thermarest NeoAir
Bowl, spoon, cup: Plastic/lexan
Pocket knife: 2-3 inch blade, simple, light
Small thermos: Optional, but nice to have
Water bottles: 2 liters combined capacity; bottles or bladder.
Water purification system: We recommend simple iodine tablets, but pumps are acceptable.

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Clothing and Personal Equipment

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Hiking boots: Sturdy, waterproof, comfortable boots. Please contact us with questions or further recommendations.
Socks: 2-3 pair of medium weight wool or synthetic blend socks.
Base layers: Synthetic t-shirt and synthetic underwear
Soft shell pants: warm enough for cool mornings and nights, yet light enough for warm days.
Soft shell jacket: light weight.
Down Jacket & Pants
Insulated vest: down or synthetic.
Hard shell jacket: waterproof and breathable, no insulation. Guides’ Pick: OR Helium
Down Booties
Hats: one with brim, one for warmth
Balaclava or Buff
Gloves & Mittens: at least two pair. One very thick and another mid weight.
Sunglasses
Sunscreen and lip balm: water/sweat-proof
Headlamp: with extra batteries.
Toiletries: Toilet paper, baggie for used TP, toothbrush/paste, wet wipes, hand sanitizer, etc.
Personal first-aid kit: for your personal meds/needs; guide will have a large one as well
Stuff sacks: for convenient packing
Camera
Lunch food: Everything you eat between breakfast and dinner. May include: bagels, dried meats, cheese, trail mix, candy bars, peanut butter, etc…

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Climbing Equipment

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Harness: Adjustable leg loops are essential.
Locking carabiner: Pear shaped, wide mouth.
Helmet
Boots: Hiking boots, or alpine boots – many options. No tennis shoes.
Crampons: General mountaineering crampons (for May/June trips only – conditions dependent)
Mountaineering Axe: 60 – 70 cm mountain axe (for May/June trips only – conditions dependent)

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Training & Follow Up Climbs

As always, being in excellent physical shape is an important component of our our programs. A good mixture of cardiovascular fitness, muscular fitness, and especially core strength will help you to maximize the potential rewards that are possible on a great climbing trip.

[image_frame style=”framed_shadow” align=”right” alt=”The NE Fork of the Kahiltna” title=”Denali’s West Rib” height=”320″ width=”263″]https://dev.mtnguide.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/west-rib-6.jpg[/image_frame]

[dropcap1 variation=”deepblue”]1[/dropcap1]Before Your Expedition

The Denali West Rib Expedition is a serious undertaking and it is essential that you prepare thoroughly both mentally and physically. In addition, the West Rib Expedition requires a higher level of technical skill so previous steep alpine climbing and/or ice climbing experience is required. Previous completion of our Denali Prep Course, and other high altitude expeditions such as Ecuador’s Volcanoes is suggested prior to enrolling in this expedition. Our Ice Climbing Courses also represent an excellent investment for the technical skills you need to have for this program.

For the West Rib Expedition you should be ready for:

18 – 24 days on a glaciated high-altitude mountain
Carrying a pack loaded with food and gear up to 65 lbs.
Fickle weather, cold temperatures, warm temperatures, delays, other factors beyond our control

[dropcap1 variation=”deepblue”]2[/dropcap1]Follow Up Climbs

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[pullquote3 quotes=”true” align=”center” cite=”N. Subashki. 2011 Private Program”]I hope that I might be able to get out to Ouray again before ice season ends. If so, I’ll definitely get in touch with you. Working with the local experts really makes a difference. Thanks again for everything![/pullquote3][/tab]

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Talkeetna, Alaska: Getting There

Talkeetna, Alaska is the gateway to Denali National Park and the myriad of mountaineering objectives found within. The small historic town swells during the climbing season (April – July) as mountaineers from all backgrounds attempt climbs in the Alaska Range. The town boasts a few good restaurants, hotels, and plenty of small planes!

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Flights: The best option for flying to the area is to fly into Anchorage, Alaska. We will pick you up at the airport in a rental car, or you may arrange your own transportation to Talkeetna.

Driving: Driving to Alaska is an experience like no other. If you’re into the “full experience” consider driving up to Alaska on the AlCan. It might just turn out to be the highlight of your trip!