The other trip I guided on Mt. Rainier, along with fellow SWAG guide Gary Falk, was a climb of the ultra classic Liberty Ridge. This is certainly one of the most sought after routes on the mountain, and is well deserving of it’s classic status. An approach from the White River Campground leads to lower Curtis Ridge and the Carbon Glacier, one of the first hurdles that teams must overcome. The next camp is at Thumb Rock, and is reached via a series of 45 – 55 degree snow/ice slopes. Then it’s 3800 vertical feet to the summit with slope angles up to 60 degrees and plenty of ice pitches. The final hurdle involves surmounting a bergschrund, which sports a 25 – 30 foot section of vertical ice climbing. We experienced fairly warm temperatures prior to and during our climb, and we experienced a good deal of rock fall below thumb rock. Above Thumb Rock the route was in great condition and John, Jeff, and Curtis all reached the summit in superb style.
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View of Liberty Ridge from lower Curtis.
Climbing just above the Black Pyramid.
Above the bergschrund.
Looking back at our tracks off Liberty Cap.
