Alpamayo Expedition July 23

Andrés and Christel had a wonderful expedition to Alpamayo. They have been enjoying the descent and being in the mountains. This morning they were in Cachapampa and will be going to Huaraz today. We look forward to hearing their stories and seeing photos. Congratulations on a great trip!  

Alpamayo Summit July 19

Congratulations Andrés and Christel! ¡Felicidades! The team started climbing from High Camp around midnight last night and were the first on route. After climbing through the night they were rewarded with a beautiful summit. Andrés checked in this morning from High Camp. They had an awesome climb and are now resting.

Alpamayo Expedition July 18

Andrés and Christel are doing well at High Camp (5,490m/18,011 ft.). They are feeling strong and tonight will go for the summit of Alpamayo (5,947m/19,512ft).  The French Direct Route leads out from the glacier, over a significant bergshrund, and onto the steep, beautiful SW face of Alpamayo. The team will endeavor the climbing of  50-70…

Alpamayo Expedition July 17

Andrés phoned in this afternoon. Christel and him are doing terrific, both are feeling great. Christel is super strong and positive, so together they are an outstanding team. They are at Moraine Camp (4,900m/16,075ft) tonight and hope to advance to high camp tomorrow (5,490m/18,011 ft.). We are cheering them on from the San Juans, wishing them a…

Alpamayo Expedition July 15

San Juan Mountain Guide’s second Alpamayo Expedition of the season is underway. Senior Guide, Andrés Marin is accompanied by the wonderful Christel Hennet. They arrived to Huaraz over the weekend with time to watch Christel’s team win the World Cup, Congrats! Yesterday they met the burros and hiked from Cachapampa to the first camp. Andrés…

Classic Couloirs: Gilpin Peak

Classic Couloirs of the San Juans Gilpin Peak’s North Face Couloir [image_frame style=”framed_shadow” alt=”Gilpin Peak” title=”North Face Couloir ” height=”250″ width=”360″]https://dev.mtnguide.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/gilpin.blog_.1.jpg[/image_frame] The San Juan Mountains are blessed with a lifetime’s worth of climbing and mountaineering challenges in all seasons. One of the most overlooked times of year to climb in the San Juans are the…

Alpamayo Update July 7

The Alpamayo Expedition is safe and they are now on their return trek to Cachapampa. They attempted the summit two nights; the 4th and 5th. Due to energy levels and weather, they did not make the top. Certainly, the journey was incredible and they learned a lot. That’s what these expeditions are all about, learning…

Vestal

Tim and I just got done with a great trip to Vestal Basin.  We parked at Molas pass and hiked in from there.  All total we hiked 20 miles, gained 8,000′ and climbed Vestal Peak, all in 36 hours!  Great climbing with you Tim!  -BK

Alpamayo Update July 5

Andrés called this morning. The team did not make the summit last night. In high altitude climbing, factors have to be in line to reach the summit safely. They are doing fine, at High Camp resting. Later this afternoon Andrés will call for a weather update and to give us their plan of action.

Alpamayo Expedition July 4

Andrés, Jerry, and Nathan are going for the summit of Alpamayo (5,947 m/19,512ft) tonight. The native language of Perú is Quechua. Alpamayo in Quechuan signifies: Alpa:Earth and Mayu:River. May the continual energy of the Earth River flow though them as they climb tonight! The French Direct Route leads out from the glacier, over a significant…

Alpamayo Expedition July 3

Heard good word from Andrés this afternoon. The Alpamayo Expedition is doing great! They arrived at High Camp (5,490m/18,011 ft.) today, feeling good and doing excellent. They will contact us again tomorrow afternoon. The hope is to go for the summit tomorrow night July 4/5. Cheers to Andrés, Jerry, and Nathan as they continue their…

Alpamayo Expedition July 2

Andrés checked in today from Moraine Camp (4,930m./16,175ft.) All is well. Everyone is doing great, they are enjoying the journey. He said the weather is a little in and out. Looking at the forecast on mountain-forecast.com, it appears the weather will be improving as they continue up the mountain. Tomorrow they will head to Advanced…

Alpamayo Expedition July 1

Jerry, Nathan and Andrés are making great progress on Alpamayo. Received word from Andrés that they are all doing super and acclimatizing well. Today they did a carry from Base Camp (4,300 m./ 14,100 ft.) to Moraine Camp (4,900 m./ 16,075ft). Tonight they will stay at base camp. They plan to advance to Moraine Camp…

Chicago Basin never fails to deliver!

Goats a-plenty and a cloudless day were had in chicago basin last week with Dave and Trevor, Jim, and Crew. While Jim’s crew had a successful weekend bagging all three fourteeners, My guest and I had a great ascent of Windom peak for Dave and Trevor’s first fourteener. Oh, and summit day weather? Not a…