For the next couple of weeks we will introduce to you some of the most legendary peaks of the Mighty San Juan Mountain Range. No two peaks are the same and each provides a unique experience that is catered by San Juan Mountain Guides to ensure you some of the best adventures of your 2015…
This is the climb you’ve been training for. We climb the classic Ham and Eggs Coulouir (V, 5.6, AI4) to the summit of one of the most sought after peaks in the Alaska Range – The Moose’s Tooth. The couloir was first climbed by Jon Krakauer, Thomas Davies, and Nate Zinsser in July of 1975. …
Andres grew up in Ibague, Colombia. His passion for guiding has allowed him to guide in all types of terrains, such as rock, alpine, skiing and high altitude. In 2011 he and his partner received the Mugs Stump Exploratory Grant to go and climb new peaks in the Southern part of Kyrgyzstan on the Kyrgy…
Ryan Riggins is a Durango transplant, originally from Orinda, California. He came to Colorado chasing the “white surf” as he went from a the never-ending Cali summers to the never-ending winters of the San Juans. A Fort Lewis graduate in Marketing, Ryan has been guiding since his Sophomore year in College. Ryan received his…
Dave Ahrens AMGA Certified Rock & Alpine Guide [image_frame style=”framed_shadow” align=”left” alt=”Dave Ahrens” title=”AMGA Certified Rock & Alpine Guide” height=”250″ width=”320″]https://dev.mtnguide.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/dave.ahrens.featured.jpg[/image_frame] Superior Guest Review of Dave: “Phenomenal, the trip was catered to our ability level, designed to challenge but stay within our group capabilities. Skills were covered while our own personal goals and powder skiing ambitions…
Dropped Belay Device? Use the Munter Hitch! If you’re a rock climber, chances are you’ve done some multi-pitch rock climbing or are at least thinking/planning to do so in the near future. On multi-pitch climbs, you carry a lot of gear with you – cams, nuts, draws, slings, carabiners – and of course your trusted…
Chris Parker- Online Editor for Rock & Ice, visits his old stomping grounds of Durango, Colorado. Although things have changed, somethings have stayed the same. Here is his story on the ever-growing rock climbing scene of our home and how it has developed in recent years. Always feel free to check out our…
Inspiration from Imagery Labor Day Weekend We’ve had a busy weekend here in the San Juans, with fantastic weather and plenty of summits throughout the range – not to mention a few laps on the Telluride Via Ferrata. Hope everyone had a great Labor Day weekend!! [image_frame style=”framed_shadow” align=”left” alt=”Summit of Vestal Peak” title=”Climbing in…
4 Easy to Follow Tips by Dawn Glanc AMGA Certified Rock & Alpine Guide So many times when we go climbing, the sole focus is on the climber. However, the belayer is equally important to the team. A lead belayer should not take their job lightly. A casual approach can cause injuries – and possibly…
A Brief History and Essential Equipment [image_frame style=”framed_shadow” align=”right” alt=”Telluride Via Ferrata” title=”In an Unmatched Setting” height=”320″ width=”263″]https://dev.mtnguide.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/ferrata4.jpg[/image_frame] Via Ferrata is the Italian name for what might fairly be called extreme hiking. First built in the Italian Dolomites during World War 1 these “iron roads” were intended to facilitate the rapid movement of troops through…
October is a great time to climb in the Moab area. The weather is generally good and the temps are perfect. Unfortunately most of Colorado also knows this and heads for the desert every fall weekend. I met Sean at a coffee shop on Monday morning and we decided to hike up to Castleton and…
Happy Holidays from the crew at San Juan Mountain Guides. May your new year be full of hero-ice, blower-powder, and splitter hand cracks!
Andy and Scott recently joined me on an 8 day Alpine Leadership course. Day 1: We started out at X-rock where we rock climbed in addition to learning climbing technique, belaying, rappeling, basic anchors and traditional gear placement. Day 2: We climbed Snowdon via the West Buttress and descended the Northeast Ridge to the Northwest…
Robert just came out and joined me in some Fast and Light climbing. I had planned a standard solid itinerary but in quickly became apparent that standard was not what Robert came to Colorado for. Day 1: We drove up to Andrews Lake and hiked into Snowdon planning to climb it on day 2. We…
Julie is training to climb Nun and Kun in Kashmir this summer. Julie came up to Durango and climbed with me in January during an Intro to Mountaineering course. She just returned last week for some more. We started out with two days of ice climbing. Day one in Cascade Canyon going over the…
In their October newletter, the AMGA highlights some of the issues (and what we as a climbing community can do about them), revolving around the attempt by the National Park Service to ban commercial guiding in The Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. In addition to The Black, the NPS is also attempting to…
Just got off a trip with fellow Michiganders Jen and Charlie. They were on a two week trip to climb and check out locations in Ouray for their upcoming wedding. I got them for four days near the end of their trip. Day 1: Climbed Ancient Art, Lizard Rock and two routes at Wall Street.…
Gary had been into Chicago Basin back in the 70’s, and had left with unfinished business. He had climbed Jupiter and Windom but bad weather denied them Eolus and Sunlight. Since the 70’s Gary has climbed peaks all over the North Cascades. When he decided to return to the Weminuche to finish the peaks in…
New for the fall of 2011 is our 4 Day Desert Climbing Seminar. The seminar adds 2 days to our popular 2 Day Indian Creek Crack Climbing Course and expands on a number of topics including anchoring, protection placement, lead climbing, multi-pitch strategies, self rescue, and other valuable skills that will help you to progress…
Chris flew out from Chicago a week ago to do some cimbing in the Black Canyon. We had our eyes on a route called the Tourist Route which is usually climbed in 10-14 pitches maxing out at 5.9. For the quality of climbing found on the Tourist Route It surprises me that it doesn’t get…