Dropped Belay Device? Use the Munter Hitch! If you’re a rock climber, chances are you’ve done some multi-pitch rock climbing or are at least thinking/planning to do so in the near future. On multi-pitch climbs, you carry a lot of gear with you – cams, nuts, draws, slings, carabiners – and of course your trusted…
Ham n Eggs Success! SJMG Guide Andres Marin called in yesterday evening and reported that everyone was doing great and that they had successfully climbed the Ham n Eggs route the previous day/night! Their new plan is for 1 of the climbers, John McIntire to head home and then Andres and our other climber –…
Chris Parker- Online Editor for Rock & Ice, visits his old stomping grounds of Durango, Colorado. Although things have changed, somethings have stayed the same. Here is his story on the ever-growing rock climbing scene of our home and how it has developed in recent years. Always feel free to check out our…
Successful Summit of Cotopaxi! I am happy to report that on Thursday night/Friday morning, 7 out of our 9 team members reached the summit of Cotopaxi. After a few days of acclimatization and training on Ruminahui and then the glacier on Cotopaxi, our group made the successful summit push in good style, reaching the summit…
First Acclimatization Peak Complete Earlier today our team successfully completed a climb of Pasochoa – an extinct Volcano on the outskirts of Quito with an altitude of approximately 13,700 feet. Pasochoa represents an excellent first trek for the trip, as it offers about a 4 – 5 hour round trip on relatively mellow terrain, yet…
Team Assembled in Quito [image_frame style=”framed_shadow” align=”left” alt=”Ecuador Volcanoes” title=”The Basillica” height=”240″ width=”320″]https://dev.mtnguide.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/bascilica3.jpg[/image_frame] Our 9 day Cotopaxi Express Expedition has begun with great success! First, all of our climbers arrived on time to Quito with all of their gear and baggage for the trip. A minor miracle to be sure! Second, the group is all…
Techniques for Efficiency With backcountry ice climbing here in the San Juans and around Colorado already in full swing, we thought it would be a good time to highlight this video – Belays & Transitions for Multi-Pitch Ice – offering a few tips and tricks for increasing your speed and efficiency on multi-pitch ice routes.…
Ivan and I were able to make it up into Yankee Boy Basin this week to do some winter mountaineering. We enjoyed perfect Colorado weather the whole trip and were able to summit Mount Sneffels (14,150′)!
An Early Season Climb of The Ribbon Wow! We are feeling grateful in the San Juans! Based on the wet September and the cycles of snow, cold night time temperatures, and sunny days in October, the ice flows are really shaping up beautifully. Hopefully, this pattern continues, and then solidifies into an epic winter with…
The Best Recipe for Early Season Ice Conditions Around the middle of October and as the temperatures in the high country start to drift towards the teen’s at night, we start thinking about how ice conditions are shaping up on all the area’s classic backcountry routes. The foundation for a good early season ice year…
Current Snow Levels in the San Juans A few of us have been out and about in the San Juan Mountains during the last week – including Chicago Basin in the Weminuche Wilderness. Recently the area has experienced a few significant storms that had a decidedly winter component to them. Below average temperatures and above…
100% Success on the Kautz Glacier [image_frame style=”framed_shadow” align=”right” alt=”View of the Tatoosh Range” title=”Mt Rainier” height=”263″ width=”320″]https://dev.mtnguide.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/rainier13.jpg[/image_frame] [image_frame style=”framed_shadow” align=”right” alt=”Cramponing up at the Nisqually” title=”Mt Rainier” height=”263″ width=”320″]https://dev.mtnguide.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/rainier12.jpg[/image_frame] Earlier this summer, July 28 – August 1 to be exact, myself (Nate Disser) and Dave Ahrens successfully led 4 climbers to the summit of…
Trailer Video Recently a few of us headed out into the Weminuche Wilderness for a climb of the inspiring Wham Ridge on Vestal Peak. Vestal Peak is one of our most popular offerings in the San Juan Mountains during the summer in part because it qualifies as one of the most difficult of Colorado’s Centennial…
Inspiration from Imagery Labor Day Weekend We’ve had a busy weekend here in the San Juans, with fantastic weather and plenty of summits throughout the range – not to mention a few laps on the Telluride Via Ferrata. Hope everyone had a great Labor Day weekend!! [image_frame style=”framed_shadow” align=”left” alt=”Summit of Vestal Peak” title=”Climbing in…
4 Easy to Follow Tips by Dawn Glanc AMGA Certified Rock & Alpine Guide So many times when we go climbing, the sole focus is on the climber. However, the belayer is equally important to the team. A lead belayer should not take their job lightly. A casual approach can cause injuries – and possibly…
Success on the French Direct SJMG Guide Andres Marin [image_frame style=”framed_shadow” align=”right” alt=”Moraine Camp” title=”Alpamayo Expedition” height=”263″ width=”320″]https://dev.mtnguide.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/andres.alpamayo.4.jpg[/image_frame] Our expedition was just incredible. Every moment was just fantastic, in our journey to the top of Alpamayo: from our long bus ride from Lima to Huaraz, meeting great people in Huaraz, putting all our gear together…
Its not super common that we hike into Vestal Basin from Molas Pass. We usually take the train which cuts off about 6 miles round trip and a 2,000 foot climb from the river back to the car on the way out. Aaron, Jacob and I left Molas on Wednesday morning and made great time…
Pachamanca Time! We wanted to let everyone know that the team is safely back at basecamp and enjoying some rest before the final push back to Huaraz. Soon, they will be enjoying a Pachamanca! More details to come with pictures once Andres and team reach Huaraz. Nice job everyone!!
Safely Back at High Camp Just got word that Alpamayo Team #2 summited yesterday and are safely back in high camp! We will post a full recap once we hear from Andres about the details of the climb. Great work everyone!
At Alpamayo Basecamp [image_frame style=”framed_shadow” align=”right” alt=”Team Members” title=”Alpamayo Expedition #2″ height=”263″ width=”320″]https://dev.mtnguide.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/alpamayo.team_.2.jpg[/image_frame] Our second Alpamayo Expedition of the season is underway and going very well. Everyone in the group arrived to Lima on time, with no delays and all their bags (whew!). After a night in Lima, the group boarded the Cruz del Sur…