Ruth Gorge Expedition 5/2
Gary and Matthew had a great climb of Mt. Barille. They have returned to Talkeetna. Stay tuned for trip report and photos once Gary returns home.
Ruth Gorge Expedition 4/30
All is well in the Ruth Gorge with Gary and Matthew. They have had full days practicing skills and planning their next climbing mission. Their goal is to climb Mt. Barille tonight. Wishing them a safe and fun journey. Stay tuned for updates as their trip continues.
Moose’s Tooth Expedition Success
Andrés, Wolf and Victor had an incredible climb of Ham n’ Eggs on the Moose’s Tooth. The team flew back to Talkeetna this afternoon (4/28). Way to go guys! Time relax and celebrate! We are so happy for you. Recap of the trip to come with photos once Andrés is finished with his season in…
Alaska Expeditions Update 4/28/15
Both trips in the Alaska Range are doing great. Andrés and team climbed Ham n’ Eggs on the Moose’s Tooth yesterday to the col. We received a spot message from them late last night from camp. That is wonderful news. We will report once we hear from them via sat phone. Congratulations team! Stayed tuned…
Moose’s Tooth Expedition
Andrés, Victor & Wolf are doing well in the Root Canal. They had a good day checking out the route. The team will launch to climb Ham n’ Eggs late tonight/early morning tomorrow (4/27). Wishing them the best in their journey.
Alaska Expedition to Ruth Gorge
Our second expedition in Alaska kicked off today. Lead Guid Gary Falk and partner Matthew flew into the Great Gorge, the Ruth Gorge. They are settled in at camp. Tomorrow (4/27) they will recon 747 pass on Mt. Dickey in hope to climb Mt. Dickey the following day. Stay tuned for expedition updates. All the…
Alaska Expedition Underway!
Our team lead by Andrés Marín arrived in Talkeetna, Alaska yesterday (4/24). They did the final pack today and flew onto the Root Canal Glacier near the Mooses’s Tooth formation. Andrés called this evening and informed us that they are settled into camp. Tomorrow (4/26) they will poke around and have a look at conditions…
Alpamayo, Peru: A Journey in Discovering the Inca Culture
Join us this summer as we return to Alpamayo, Peru, with San Juan Mountain Guide, Andres Marin! Long considered one of the world’s most beautiful mountains, Alpamayo remains one of mountaineering’s most coveted summits. Situated in the “Himalayas of South America,” the Cordillera Blanca is much more accessible than its Asian counterpart, yet there are…
The Alaska Range – Moose’s Tooth Expedition: Rugged. Vast. Magical.
This is the climb you’ve been training for. We climb the classic Ham and Eggs Coulouir (V, 5.6, AI4) to the summit of one of the most sought after peaks in the Alaska Range – The Moose’s Tooth. The couloir was first climbed by Jon Krakauer, Thomas Davies, and Nate Zinsser in July of 1975. …
Meet Your Guide For The Alpamayo Expedition (19,511 ft): Andres Marin
Andres grew up in Ibague, Colombia. His passion for guiding has allowed him to guide in all types of terrains, such as rock, alpine, skiing and high altitude. In 2011 he and his partner received the Mugs Stump Exploratory Grant to go and climb new peaks in the Southern part of Kyrgyzstan on the Kyrgy…
The Perfect Pair: Pants for Ladies in the Back-Country
For most outdoor women, it is considered the Cinderella Story when we finally find the technical apparel that offers functionality without sacrificing the women’s fit that’s been a long-time mystery for the Outdoor Industry. I can confidently say that Outdoor Research has finally nailed it with the Trailbreaker Pants for Women. I have been a…
Stairway to Heaven with Mark Miller
Foreward About a month ago I ran into Melissa and Steve Alcorn at the Ouray Ice Park. They had recently just climbed Stairway to Heaven in Silverton’s Eureka Canyon with Mark Miller. When I saw them I thought it would be a cool idea to have them write an account of the day with Mark.…
4Corners TV Video of Classic Ice Climb Route – Gold Rush
SJMG Owner, Nate Disser, recently guided up Gold Rush – A Colorado Classic Ice Climbing Route in Eureka canyon outside of Silverton, CO. “All of our guides go through a rigorous process of training and certification and are certified with the American Mountain Guide Association. What clients…
Why You Should Join Our Ice Climbing Trip to Cody, Wyoming
When it comes to Ice Climbing, the San Juan Mountains can be hard to beat. With Classic Routes located in our backyard and with the Ouray Ice Park essentially located in our front yard, its hard to justify traveling to climb in other renown areas. There are far and few areas that are worth the…
5 Things To Do While Attending the Ouray Ice Festival
For a full list of events check out the Official Ouray Ice Festival Site! – Visit Ouray’s Brewery Arguably the best way to celebrate a successful day in the park – we suggest checking out our local brewery for a cold one. Ouray Brewery is a huge supporter of the Ouray Ice Festival by donating…
The Talisman & Bridalveil Falls
Trip & Condition Reports from SJMG Senior Guide Mark Miller Recently, SJMG Senior Guide Mark Miller got a few days off of guiding locally here in Ouray & the San Juans. He took the opportunity to see how things were forming up and grab some conditions reports on a few of our local area hardman classics…
3 Interesting Facts about Our Ski Tour in Northern Italy
San Juan Mountain Guides will be adding the Ortler Traverse, a prominent ski tour in Italy’s South Tyrol, a mountain range straddling the Italian-Austrian border. Despite the 4000+ meter peaks and the luxurious hut systems – this expedition is a experience of fused cultures: that of the Austria ancestry that resides in the Northern Italian…
The 2015 European Ortler Traverse: Q & A with San Juan Mtn Guide, Pat Ormond
Pat is a fully certified IFMGA Mountain Guide, having completed his AMGA Rock, Alpine Guide, and Ski Mountaineering Certifications. This will be his second trip on the Ortler Traverse. What intrigued you about the Ortler Traverse and why did you decide to guide this trip? “The Ortler is known for having the best huts…
Gear Review: OR Lodestar Jacket
The Lodestar Jacket With winter upon us in here in the San Juans, our technical layers take on added importance. SW Colorado and the San Juan Mountains offer up a veritable cornucopia of conditions. Everything from whiteout conditions, 45 mph winds, warm sunny days, feet of snow, and frigid freeze-your-fingers cold is par for the…
Ames Ice Hose Conditions 12.8.14
Classic Line Back In Condition Climbed Ames with Kevin today. The first pitch is in the fattest and most protectable condition I have ever climbed it. The second pitch has a few interesting cauliflowers to work around, but mostly protects well and the chimney is too full of ice to need rock gear. The third…