Ruth Gorge Expedition 5/2
Gary and Matthew had a great climb of Mt. Barille. They have returned to Talkeetna. Stay tuned for trip report and photos once Gary returns home.
Ruth Gorge Expedition 4/30
All is well in the Ruth Gorge with Gary and Matthew. They have had full days practicing skills and planning their next climbing mission. Their goal is to climb Mt. Barille tonight. Wishing them a safe and fun journey. Stay tuned for updates as their trip continues.
Ruth Gorge Expedition Update
Gary and Matthew are doing excellent in the Ruth Gorge. Yesterday (4/28) they climb the West Ridge of Mt. Dickey. Today (4/29) they had a skills training day around base camp. They are potentially looking towards a climb of Mt. Barille soon. We will keep you posted as we get word. Glad they are having…
Moose’s Tooth Expedition Success
Andrés, Wolf and Victor had an incredible climb of Ham n’ Eggs on the Moose’s Tooth. The team flew back to Talkeetna this afternoon (4/28). Way to go guys! Time relax and celebrate! We are so happy for you. Recap of the trip to come with photos once Andrés is finished with his season in…
Alaska Expeditions Update 4/28/15
Both trips in the Alaska Range are doing great. Andrés and team climbed Ham n’ Eggs on the Moose’s Tooth yesterday to the col. We received a spot message from them late last night from camp. That is wonderful news. We will report once we hear from them via sat phone. Congratulations team! Stayed tuned…
Moose’s Tooth Expedition
Andrés, Victor & Wolf are doing well in the Root Canal. They had a good day checking out the route. The team will launch to climb Ham n’ Eggs late tonight/early morning tomorrow (4/27). Wishing them the best in their journey.
Alaska Expedition to Ruth Gorge
Our second expedition in Alaska kicked off today. Lead Guid Gary Falk and partner Matthew flew into the Great Gorge, the Ruth Gorge. They are settled in at camp. Tomorrow (4/27) they will recon 747 pass on Mt. Dickey in hope to climb Mt. Dickey the following day. Stay tuned for expedition updates. All the…
Alaska Expedition Underway!
Our team lead by Andrés Marín arrived in Talkeetna, Alaska yesterday (4/24). They did the final pack today and flew onto the Root Canal Glacier near the Mooses’s Tooth formation. Andrés called this evening and informed us that they are settled into camp. Tomorrow (4/26) they will poke around and have a look at conditions…
Alpamayo, Peru: A Journey in Discovering the Inca Culture
Join us this summer as we return to Alpamayo, Peru, with San Juan Mountain Guide, Andres Marin! Long considered one of the world’s most beautiful mountains, Alpamayo remains one of mountaineering’s most coveted summits. Situated in the “Himalayas of South America,” the Cordillera Blanca is much more accessible than its Asian counterpart, yet there are…
The Alaska Range – Moose’s Tooth Expedition: Rugged. Vast. Magical.
This is the climb you’ve been training for. We climb the classic Ham and Eggs Coulouir (V, 5.6, AI4) to the summit of one of the most sought after peaks in the Alaska Range – The Moose’s Tooth. The couloir was first climbed by Jon Krakauer, Thomas Davies, and Nate Zinsser in July of 1975. …
Meet Your Guide For The Alpamayo Expedition (19,511 ft): Andres Marin
Andres grew up in Ibague, Colombia. His passion for guiding has allowed him to guide in all types of terrains, such as rock, alpine, skiing and high altitude. In 2011 he and his partner received the Mugs Stump Exploratory Grant to go and climb new peaks in the Southern part of Kyrgyzstan on the Kyrgy…
The Perfect Pair: Pants for Ladies in the Back-Country
For most outdoor women, it is considered the Cinderella Story when we finally find the technical apparel that offers functionality without sacrificing the women’s fit that’s been a long-time mystery for the Outdoor Industry. I can confidently say that Outdoor Research has finally nailed it with the Trailbreaker Pants for Women. I have been a…
Gear Review: OR Trailbreaker Pants
Gear Review: OR Trailbreaker Pants I’ve put in a solid season in the updated Trailbreaker pants, and they’ve become my go to ski pants, whether touring or inbounds riding lifts. There are some good improvements over the original version, and as we get towards spring and transition to the ski mountaineering season in the San…
Stairway to Heaven with Mark Miller
Foreward About a month ago I ran into Melissa and Steve Alcorn at the Ouray Ice Park. They had recently just climbed Stairway to Heaven in Silverton’s Eureka Canyon with Mark Miller. When I saw them I thought it would be a cool idea to have them write an account of the day with Mark.…
4Corners TV Video of Classic Ice Climb Route – Gold Rush
SJMG Owner, Nate Disser, recently guided up Gold Rush – A Colorado Classic Ice Climbing Route in Eureka canyon outside of Silverton, CO. “All of our guides go through a rigorous process of training and certification and are certified with the American Mountain Guide Association. What clients…
Why You Should Join Our Ice Climbing Trip to Cody, Wyoming
When it comes to Ice Climbing, the San Juan Mountains can be hard to beat. With Classic Routes located in our backyard and with the Ouray Ice Park essentially located in our front yard, its hard to justify traveling to climb in other renown areas. There are far and few areas that are worth the…
5 Things To Do While Attending the Ouray Ice Festival
For a full list of events check out the Official Ouray Ice Festival Site! – Visit Ouray’s Brewery Arguably the best way to celebrate a successful day in the park – we suggest checking out our local brewery for a cold one. Ouray Brewery is a huge supporter of the Ouray Ice Festival by donating…
Route Profile: Dukes of Hazzard
Rarely formed Route in Silverton’s Eureka Canyon by Mark Miller, SJMG Senior Guide Today Dave and I headed to Dukes of Hazzard in Silverton’s Eureka Canyon. Having never been on it before, I was pretty excited to get a good look at it. It ends up being two very nice, but distinctly different pitches. Pitch 1…
Gear Review: OR Women’s Conviction Pant
A Guide’s Perspective by Lindsay Fixmer AMGA Certified Rock Guide & Assistant Alpine Guide Upon arriving in Ouray, CO early this December for the winter ice climbing season, I have lived in the OR Conviction Pant. Equally suited for approaches through knee-deep snow, drippy backcountry ice climbs or sunny dry tooling routes, the Conviction pant…
The Talisman & Bridalveil Falls
Trip & Condition Reports from SJMG Senior Guide Mark Miller Recently, SJMG Senior Guide Mark Miller got a few days off of guiding locally here in Ouray & the San Juans. He took the opportunity to see how things were forming up and grab some conditions reports on a few of our local area hardman classics…