Vestal
Tim and I just got done with a great trip to Vestal Basin. We parked at Molas pass and hiked in from there. All total we hiked 20 miles, gained 8,000′ and climbed Vestal Peak, all in 36 hours! Great climbing with you Tim! -BK
Alpamayo Update July 5
Andrés called this morning. The team did not make the summit last night. In high altitude climbing, factors have to be in line to reach the summit safely. They are doing fine, at High Camp resting. Later this afternoon Andrés will call for a weather update and to give us their plan of action.
Alpamayo Expedition July 4
Andrés, Jerry, and Nathan are going for the summit of Alpamayo (5,947 m/19,512ft) tonight. The native language of Perú is Quechua. Alpamayo in Quechuan signifies: Alpa:Earth and Mayu:River. May the continual energy of the Earth River flow though them as they climb tonight! The French Direct Route leads out from the glacier, over a significant…
Alpamayo Video
Alpamayo CLimb
Alpamayo Expedition July 3
Heard good word from Andrés this afternoon. The Alpamayo Expedition is doing great! They arrived at High Camp (5,490m/18,011 ft.) today, feeling good and doing excellent. They will contact us again tomorrow afternoon. The hope is to go for the summit tomorrow night July 4/5. Cheers to Andrés, Jerry, and Nathan as they continue their…
Alpamayo Expedition July 2
Andrés checked in today from Moraine Camp (4,930m./16,175ft.) All is well. Everyone is doing great, they are enjoying the journey. He said the weather is a little in and out. Looking at the forecast on mountain-forecast.com, it appears the weather will be improving as they continue up the mountain. Tomorrow they will head to Advanced…
Alpamayo Expedition July 1
Jerry, Nathan and Andrés are making great progress on Alpamayo. Received word from Andrés that they are all doing super and acclimatizing well. Today they did a carry from Base Camp (4,300 m./ 14,100 ft.) to Moraine Camp (4,900 m./ 16,075ft). Tonight they will stay at base camp. They plan to advance to Moraine Camp…
Chicago Basin never fails to deliver!
Goats a-plenty and a cloudless day were had in chicago basin last week with Dave and Trevor, Jim, and Crew. While Jim’s crew had a successful weekend bagging all three fourteeners, My guest and I had a great ascent of Windom peak for Dave and Trevor’s first fourteener. Oh, and summit day weather? Not a…
Alpamayo Update June 30, 2014
Our Alpamayo team arrived at base camp yesterday. Base camp is at roughly 4,320 meters or 14,173 feet. They are all feeling good and will spend the day today acclimatizing. Tonight they will stay at base camp again. Stay tuned for updates as we hear from them via satellite phone.
En Route Towards Alpamayo
Good word from the Alpamayo Expedition. Andrés called via sat phone. They had a terrific day hiking, it was beautiful and everyone is feeling great. Tomorrow they will get an early start and head on to base camp. Weather is looking nice the next few days. We wish the team a safe journey.
Perú Expedition June 28, 2014
Andrés, Jerry and Nathan had a great day in Huaraz packing up for the big adventure, filling up on Perúvian delicacies, and drinking agua de coconut. The team will go to Cachapampa where they will meet the burros, load up, and head towards Alpamayo. Off into the mountains! Salud to a wonderful expedition!
Peru Expedition June 26, 2014
Our team led by Andrés Marin arrived safely to Lima yesterday. Andrés is psyched to have Jerry and his son Nathan on the expedition to Alpamayo. Today they are heading to Huaraz where they will spend the day tomorrow doing last minute prep before going into the mountains. ¡Suerte fuerte en el viaje! All the…
Ham ‘n Eggs & Shaken Not Stirred
Out Is A State Of Mind Alaska Range Trip Report by Frank Robertson This spring, SJMG Senior Guide Mark Miller and climbing guest Frank Robertson headed to the Alaska Range for a great trip in the Ruth Gorge, and specifically the Root Canal Glacier for an attempt(s)/climb(s) of classic routes like Ham ‘n Eggs and…
Sendero Iluminoso Ouray Rock
Adventure is literally right out our door here in Ouray. Just a short hike from town is a great nine pitch rock route, Sendero Iluminoso. This route climbs the prominent buttress of the Purple Cliffs on the west side of the Ouray valley. It is s super way to enjoy the sunshine and blue-skies while…
Featured Guide: Dave Ahrens
Dave Ahrens AMGA Certified Rock & Alpine Guide [image_frame style=”framed_shadow” align=”left” alt=”Dave Ahrens” title=”AMGA Certified Rock & Alpine Guide” height=”250″ width=”320″]https://dev.mtnguide.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/dave.ahrens.featured.jpg[/image_frame] Superior Guest Review of Dave: “Phenomenal, the trip was catered to our ability level, designed to challenge but stay within our group capabilities. Skills were covered while our own personal goals and powder skiing ambitions…
No Belay Device? Use the Munter Hitch!
Dropped Belay Device? Use the Munter Hitch! If you’re a rock climber, chances are you’ve done some multi-pitch rock climbing or are at least thinking/planning to do so in the near future. On multi-pitch climbs, you carry a lot of gear with you – cams, nuts, draws, slings, carabiners – and of course your trusted…
Alpine Anchors – 1 Piece
A thick spring snowpack is making for excellent alpine climbing conditions. Went were able to sneak out of the office the other day to climb a steep coulior. Moving fast in the mountains is always the name of the game, and sometimes one piece anchors are just what is needed to provide security to partners…
Ski Mountaineering Camp
Our four day ski mountaineering camp this April was a total success, with great ski conditions,and green light avalanche hazard. We began the trip with a day up at Red Mountain Pass, skiing into Prospect basin and ending the day with the classic decent from the summit of Red Mountain 3 into Champion Basin. This…
Alaska Expedition #2 Update
Ham n Eggs Success! SJMG Guide Andres Marin called in yesterday evening and reported that everyone was doing great and that they had successfully climbed the Ham n Eggs route the previous day/night! Their new plan is for 1 of the climbers, John McIntire to head home and then Andres and our other climber –…
Alaska Expedition April 26, 2014
Our next team of climbers set out this afternoon from Talkeetna to fly into the Ruth Canal, if all goes well. Lead Guide Andrés Marin is joined by Brian and John with ambition to climb the Moose’s Tooth via Ham and Eggs. Wishing them a safe and fun adventure. We will update the blog as…